Install acrylic bath

The final "building bit" is to construct your timber frame for additional support and for fixing bath panels. Flip the bath over again so that the underside is accessible. Measure around the inside, behind the lip and then cut your timbers and fix them together.

You may have to trim the timber up that sits across the edge with the taps depending on how much room you have. Again, allow it to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Most frames will feature a fixing point at the top that will have a screw hole. As above, this is easier done when the bath is flipped over so that the underside is facing upwards. Once upsidedown position the frame on to the cradle.

You may find that you need to wiggle it slightly so that the fixing points are flat on the surface of the cradle. Now align it centrally both along the width and length of the bath so that it provides support across an even area. When fixing it, start at the tap end and then at the opposite end. Once these are fixed you can the deal with the fixings along both the longer sections. Ensure that all are screwed down firmly and when flipped back up, the bath feels sturdy and solid.

As the bath is currently moveable it is a good idea to fix the taps and waste. Whether your taps and waste came with the bath or you bought them seperately, they should include assembly and installation instructions. In most cases you will be using either seperate hot and cold taps or a mixer tap, in either case, installation is prety much the same. Unscrew the remaining nuts the large plastic ones from each of the taps and then poke the base of one of the taps down through a tap hole.

Install each tap in the required position depending on which way around your pipes are in terms of hot and cold. In most cases hot will be on the left and cold will be on the right.

Reach underneath the lip of the bath and screw the retaining nut up until it is finger tight. Make sure that the tap is straight on the top. As you may have noticed, getting a spanner on to the nut in order to tighten it up is nigh on impossible in most cases, this is where a basin wrench comes in very handy as it will allow you to access these tight areas.

Basin wrench — Available in our online store. Once the taps are in position on the bath it is also a good idea to fix the tap connectors onto each tap. The easiest connectors to use are push fit fittings as you can then just push these straight onto the exising water supply pipes. If you have a mixer tap and both inlet hoses are connected to the same mono block you will need a small box-spanner to tighten the flexible hoses onto the block properly.

These can be bought from any plumbers merchants. If the pipes are clean and the seal is good they will be equally as good as a compression fitting. When it comes to the waste, normally this will feature a chrome or stainless steel cover that sits inside the bath with a rubber seal behind it and a screw will run down through the centre that screws into the rest of the pipework underneath the bath. The act of screwing up the pipework on the underside pinches the drain cover on the inside of the bath up tight and prevents any water from leaking.

To aid with this seal it is also a very good idea to apply a bead of silicone on the underside of the drain cover, all the way around it, to provide an additional layer of resistance to any leaks. Depending on the type of bath you have and who made it, the final job should be to bolt on the plug chain fixing.

There should be a small hole located near the overflow drain off or near the taps somewhere. Unscrew the bolt on the chain bolt, push the bolt through and then from underneath, screw the bolt back on and tighten it, but not too tight as this may crack the bath. Again, for some added protection, apply a small amount of silicone around the bolt hole when you have inserted the bolt, to totally plug the hole and prevent any potential leakage.

Before you put the bath in its final resting place one final job to do is add some additional bearers on top of the floor surface that will sit under the feet on the frame.

This will help with keeping the bath from moving when its in use and also provide more load-bearing support for the floor. You should also screw the bearers firmly to the floor so that they stay in place. With the cradle and frame fixed and the taps and waste in place along with further supporting bearers in the floor, move the bath into its final resting position ensuring that it is pushed up tight to any walls or other solid surfaces.

Now that the bath is in place, use a spirit level to get the bath level by screwing in or out the adjustable feet. If your bath fits flush with a wall and you have brackets that hold the bath to the wall, now is the time to fit these. If the base of the feet have screw holes you can screw them to the bearers. Now that the bath is in place you can start connecting up.

You should already have your flexible tap connectors fixed to the taps so it should be a case of pushing each onto the relevant hot or cold supply pipe. If your taps were previously connected using compression fitting you may need to cut a section of the exisising pipe off to remove the old olive and also allow some room for the length of the connector pipe.

Also ensure that you remove any paintwork and clean pipes with wire wool before pushing on connectors. Push fit connectors must only be fitted to the bare pipe as if not you may get leaks! To find out more about connecting taps and push fit fittings check out our project on connecting taps and also our project on push fit plumbing fittings.

With the taps now sorted, lets tackle the waste. If your bath is of the same size and shape as the old one then you should be able to use the existing waste pipework. If so, firstly slide the screw up collar back and remove the rubber seal and give it and the end of the pipe a good clean with an old cloth to remove any debris.

Its a good idea to fit a new rubber seal at this point to ensure a good joint. Your new waste should include a new one but if not pop down to your local plumbers merchant with the seal and ask them to match it for a new one. Refit the rubber seal and position the piework back to meet the new waste on the base of the bath.

Ensure that pipework mates together nicely and that there are no major gaps around the area the two meet as, when screwed up, this could cause the pipework to twist and put unnecessary stress on other joints that could cause leaks. Screw the collar onto the thread on the bath waste outlet up tight by hand. Over tightening can cause leaks. You can tighten further if needs be later if you find you have leaks when we test.

If you find your pipework does not meet nicely then you are going to have to make some adjustments. For this, we have a detailed project on how to fit bath waste that can be found here. You will need to turn the water back on at the mains if it is off or open up your isolation valves if they are closed. Once all back on check all your new connections for signs of seepage or leaks. If any are found carefully tighten any compressions joints only a little to begin with and wipe away any water and then check again.

If any of your push fit fittings are leaking ensure that they are pushed all the way onto any pipes. This is a particularly vulnerable area for moisture penetration, so obtaining a proper waterproof seal where the tiles meet these elements is critical.

For more information, visit www. Facebook Twitter Youtube Pinterest. More from EHT:. An Overview of an Acrylic Tub Installation. By Matt Weber During a recent bathroom remodel, we had the opportunity to replace cast-iron tub with a new acrylic bathtub.

Before you Begin Local building codes vary by location, and you might need a permit for this project in your area. Our recent bathroom remodel involved removing an old cast iron tub from a tiled surround. First step was to scrape off the tile. The wall sheathing was removed from around the old tub. To remove the old tub, we used an electric grinder with a metal-cutting wheel to cut it in half. Next, a pry bar helped to pull the two halves away from the wall for disposal.

A vent pipe from a first-floor bathroom complicated our wall framing, requiring us to shim out the wall studs. We cut the shims for the wall studs on a table saw. When framing the shower surround, plan for any shelves or accessories by incorporating any necessary blocking into the wall studs. We cut a hole through the floor and accessed the drain from below.

Wood stringers were installed over the studs. The stringers are intended to level and support the tub deck, but the rim must NOT support the weight of the tub. A mortar bed must fill the void between the floor and the tub to support the bottom completely. This photo shows the tub fitted with the universal PVC drain kit. Inspect the bathtub for damage upon delivery. The design of the tub features one exposed acrylic wall, with the other three sides supported by the bathroom walls.

Dry-fit the tub to troubleshoot any issues prior to mixing the mortar. Mix the mortar with water until it is damp and thick. Trowel the mortar onto the floor of the rough opening, forming a bed thick and broad enough to support the complete bottom of the tub. After positioning the tub in the mortar bed and ensuring it sits level fasten the flange to the studs with nails or screws with flat washers. The wall should be waterproofed, and the finished surface should be installed to cover the flange and direct water into the tub.

In preparation for tile, we installed cement board over the studs of the surround. Porcelain-enameled cast iron tubs are not likely to chip; in fact, they are said to be chip-resistant. Scratches can be caused mechanically with sharp objects, abrasive sponges, or even the coarse salts that you use in your bath scrubs and bath salts.

Abrasive cleaners can cause chemical scratches on the surface of certain materials. Needless to say, scratches easily catch and hold dirt and cause a bathtub to look old and grungy, even if it was only installed a few years previously.

And acrylic bathtubs are by far the most susceptible to getting scratched when compared to porcelain-enameled steel and porcelain-enameled cast iron bathtubs, which are scratch-resistant. However, although acrylic bathtubs scratch more readily, these scratches are often easier to repair than a chip in porcelain enamel.

Porcelain-enameled cast iron and porcelain-enameled steel tubs do not warp. These tubs can crack, but only if something very heavy is dropped onto them. Acrylic bathtubs, especially those of poorer quality, can warp. Your acrylic tub will also flex as you stand in it. If the tub is not correctly installed and maintained, this can result in cracks and breaks. Acrylic bathtubs are more likely to stain than the two metal tubs that are coated in stain-resistant porcelain enamel.

This may seem odd because acrylic is not a porous material. However, the problem is that surfaces made of acrylic will get micro-scratches that you may not even see. Then these scuffed surfaces stain more easily. Ultimately, a porcelain-enameled cast-iron tub is the most durable of the three materials we are looking at in this article, and acrylic is the least durable.

You should never use abrasive cleaners and abrasive sponges on your bathtubs. However, porcelain-enameled steel and porcelain-enameled cast iron are more able to handle the very occasional heavy-duty wash than are acrylic bathtubs. You do not need to scrub and scrape any of these bathtub materials. In fact, as mentioned previously, this is really bad for them.

A good and gentle cleanser with a sponge or rag should do the trick. As acrylic tubs stain easily, they will need to be washed more frequently than porcelain-enameled steel or porcelain-enameled cast iron tubs.

The longer a stain sits, the harder they are to remove. However, as already mentioned, the biggest cleaning differences come as a result of the susceptibility to scratching displayed by acrylic tubs. A scratched surface holds dirt and grime more stubbornly, and it is difficult to clean out, especially because scourers or scrubbers will only scratch the surface further.

To find out exactly how to clean your particular tub type, read this post about how to make your bathtub look new again. Porcelain-enameled steel and porcelain-enameled cast iron bathtubs are not as prone to growing mold and mildew as a material like fiberglass. Still, it is possible for fungi to appear on the surface of a porcelain tub. Acrylic bathtubs, on the other hand, are resistant to the growth of mold and mildew.

If a porcelain-enameled steel bathtub is chipped and the chips are not repaired immediately, then the metal core may rust, and the whole tub may have to be replaced.

However, if the porcelain-enameled steel tub has been properly maintained but the surface is just worn, then you can easily refinish it. Porcelain tub refinishing can be done professionally—more long-lasting and probably neater—or you can make it a DIY project. You might also look into getting a bathtub liner. This sheet of acrylic will be molded to the exact dimensions of your tub and give it a brand new look. Many bathtub liners can be fitted over porcelain-enameled steel or porcelain-enameled cast iron.

Some can be used on acrylic bathtubs, but it depends on the particular manufacturer of the tub liner. My post about bathtub liners is likely to answer any questions you have on this solution. An acrylic tub will not need to be replaced because of rust, but if it is warped or cracked, then replacing it will be your only option.

If your acrylic bathtub is just scratched or stained, then you can refinish its surface or possibly get a tub liner molded to fit.

If you need to replace your tub, then an acrylic one will be much easier and less costly to replace than a porcelain bathtub, just as they are easier and less costly to install initially. Different bathtub materials have pros and cons.